Wednesday, November 2, 2011

Frame Pouch Cutting and Sewing

Frame Pouch Along
{all prior Pouch Along links can be found here}

Before we go any further I wanted to share the Frame Pouch Along Flickr Group.  The suggestion came from Annabella of Life's Rich Pattern.  I had hesitated because well, there is probably a tiny group of us doing the PAL right now and I didn't want to feel foolish.  But, then I thought about it, and decided who cares?!  We can at least share our fabric choices, template questions, and other ideas or design choices we are making.  Plus, we can always go back and help other people along the way that may decide to jump into the PAL at a later date.  So...please go to the Flickr Page and post your questions, thoughts, ideas!  I can't wait to see what you guys are creating!

Alright back to cutting and sewing.  For those of you who might have missed my earlier should use your template to cut the following:

- 2 of the interfacing you will use with your outside fabric (I use fleece interfacing)
- 2 of your outer fabric
- 2 of your lining fabric
- 2 of the lining for your interfacing (optional, I will not use interfacing for my lining as I believe it is makes the pouch too thick, this will depend on your preference and type of fabric - i.e. voile you should probably use interfacing)

Let me expand on what I mean in regards to the optional interfacing for the lining.  I am using a linen/cotton blend for both my lining and exterior fabric.  When I have used this combo before I did not like the way the interfacing stiffened the lining.  Personally, it didn't seem like a proper lining then because it had an inflexible shape.  This time I have chosen to exclude it.  Whether to use it or not is totally up to you. BUT, if you choose to use interfacing for the lining it should be a lighter weight interfacing than the interfacing of the exterior. 

Pouch Design
If there is piecing, embroidery, or pockets you'd like to add to your pouch now is probably the time to do it!  Especially inner should add them now, measuring their placement on your pattern.  Keep in mind that the frame and seams will take away from the overall amount of space you will have in the completed pouch.  As you can see in my design I chose to include a pocket and a selvage...

DSC_0058  DSC_0059

Cutting the Interfacing Cheat
I am always looking for ways to make the process more efficient...haha yes, a cheat.  So this is what I do when using iron-on interfacing.  I am not a huge lover of cutting pattern templates by hand so I found a way around it by doing the following...

I place the wrong side of the fabric against the grainy/pebbly side of the interfacing.  Using my iron I press the fabric onto the interfacing and when there is a bit of adhesion I flip the whole thing over.   


Once the pieces are flipped over I continue ironing.  Why the flip?  Because I don't want to ruin my iron by heating up the adhesion against it.  


When the pieces are adhered to the interfacing I cut them out!


Voila.  Interfacing done.  And your pieces match perfectly.


Place the Exterior sides together with the Right Sides Facing each other. (wow my hand looks fat in this picture doesn't it???  what is up with that?)


Now we only want to sew the body of the pieces together.  Meaning, the Non-negotiable Section I pointed out earlier is going to be important here.  I find that the best way to get it right is to take my template and line it up and mark where the non-negotiable section ends.  You can use pen, I prefer using pins.


The pins below mark where the non-negotiable section ends.  We will only be sewing from one pin to the next.  Remember to use 1/4" seams.


Sew from pin to pin.  The BOTTOM part...remember to leave the opening where the non-negotiable section is open.  

Repeat this same step with your lining!

Creating a Squared Bottom
If you aren't going to have a square bottom you can move onto the next section.  Otherwise, follow me...

To create a squared bottom you are going to pinch the bottom corners of your sewn pouch together.  Let me be clearer.  Pinch the Side Seam to the Bottom Seam.  So you will do two times, once for each corner.  


Holding the pinch in your hand pick up the pouch and look inside.  You can feel between your finger and thumb whether your seams are lined up...but it is also good to check yourself visually.  Make sure the seams are lined up before you pin.


When you are happy that things are lined up lay your corner down flat against the table and measure.  You can use whatever width you'd like.  I am choosing 1.25" across for my bottom.  

One and a quarter inch

Draw a line (in my case it measures 1.25") and then pin to hold your seams in place.


Now, I have learned from doing this a few times that you don't always have your seams quite straight.  Or your line ends up crooked, or you decide you have made your bottom too wide...the list goes on.  So, my tip on this is to BASTE your corner first.  This will truly make your life easier should you decide it needs changing.


When you have got it right you can always go back and sew it in with a tighter length stitch afterward.  In the end your corners should be lined up with the seams and each other.


When you are positively, absolutely, totally committed to your corners then flip your pouch inside out again and trim the excess.  This is especially important with fabric that has interfacing as it will bunch and be an annoyance later.


Repeat this same step with your lining!

Exterior and Interior Sewn - Now Sew Them Together!
By this point you should have a sewn exterior and a sewn lining.  If you intend to have a pouch with squared bottom then they should both also be squared.  Hmmm...what now?  Well that whole non-negotiable section comes into play now!


Take your lining fabric and flip it inside out.  Leave your exterior fabric right side out.


Then take your exterior and place it inside your lining.  Now on the outside you should only see the wrong side of the lining (if you used interfacing on your lining then you will see interfacing!).


On the interior of your pouch you will see the interfacing of the exterior portion of the pouch.


As any quilter knows, when you layer this many fabrics on top of each other some slipping and sliding can happen.  So you may want to pin the opening together to keep it in place.  Also, you will want to leave an opening to flip your pouch inside out again and sew the rest of the opening together.  If you use pins they can also serve an additional purpose by marking where you start and begin your sewing.   


I left my opening the size of the whole horizontal line of my non-negotiable section.  It is large enough to fit my hand and was easily defined.  I was also sure to reinforce my sewing at the beginning and end of the opening so that it didn't tear.  


When the sewing is complete then turn the piece inside out.


When you reach the point where the lining and exterior are completely out then you will push the lining inside the exterior.


To make sure your pieces are fitting together well you should roll your seams between your forefinger and thumb.  This will help set them in place and align them together correctly.

DSC_0079  DSC_0080 what to do with this bit?  The left over opening?  Well, you can hand sew it if you are so inclined.


Personally I fold under the fabric to 1/4" and iron it down.  Then I sew a top stitch close to the edge.  This will be hidden by the frame when it is attached.  


In the end your pouch should be complete - sans frame!  We will learn how to attach it tomorrow.  Be ready with your glue or curved needles!!!


Don't forget to post your questions or progress on the Flickr Group Page.  

I am also linking up to Freshly Pieced for Work in Progress Wednesday.  If you are visiting from there feel free to join in our PAL.  It'll be here whenever you have time to join!

- rebecca lynne

p.s. Halloween Photos coming soon!


Erin @ Once Upon a Donkey said...

Oh fun! Loving your fabric choice. I can't find a frame instore so will have to bite the bullet and order online. I'll get there eventually. Ahh! Hope you're feeling better. x

Unknown said...

This is AWESOME! Thank you for posting this.
I am still working on the body of the purse and will post a picture on the PAL flickr group soon.:)

Lucy | Charm About You said...

I'm loving this! Sorry I'm not joining in right now but I'll try to do one soon :) Great instructions!

Snoodles said...

This is *the* best clear, and great pictures. I know it takes work to create one of these, so I wanted to let you know that I appreciate it! I'm bookmarking this so that I can make some for Christmas. I know this is lazy, but instead of going back to re-read your posts, where do you get your frames? And which way holds up better for attaching -- glue or stitching? Hugs to you!

Archie the wonder dog said...

Wonderful tutorial! Love the pouch you're making!

Jan May said...

Glad I popped by to check this great tutorial out again.... as I was sure I had commented. A great post - thank you for sharing.